Kangra Valley stands at the crossroads of Himalayan history. From repeated invasions and strategic forts to living temples, miniature art, and mountain tea, this feature explores Himachal’s most contested and consequential region

Kangra: Long before hill stations, monasteries, or modern tourism defined Himachal Pradesh, Kangra stood at the centre of Himalayan power politics. Armies marched toward it. Empires fought over it. Wealth flowed through it. Faith anchored it.

When Alexander the Great halted his eastward advance in 326 BCE, Kangra’s Trigarta kingdom already commanded territory, resources, and strategic relevance. When Mahmud of Ghazni crossed into North India centuries later, he did not bypass Kangra—he attacked it. When Mughal emperors sought dominance over the western Himalayas, they focused relentlessly on this valley.

Unlike regions shaped by isolation, Kangra was shaped by confrontation. Its history is not a quiet mountain narrative; it is a record of repeated invasions and sustained resistance.

Even today, as travellers pass through on the way to Dharamshala or McLeodganj, few realise that the cultural foundation of those destinations rests on Kangra’s long and contested past.

Trigarta: The land of three rivers

Ancient Indian texts refer to Kangra as Trigarta—the land of three rivers. The Beas, Banganga, and Manjhi did more than nourish agriculture; they created one of the rare Himalayan valleys capable of sustaining large populations and organised rule.

This geographical advantage allowed the Katoch dynasty to establish long-term control. While early genealogies blend legend with memory, historical records confirm the Katochs as one of India’s oldest surviving royal houses.

More importantly, Kangra’s location placed it directly between the Punjab plains and Himalayan passes leading toward Tibet. As a result, it became unavoidable. Trade caravans crossed it. Military campaigns passed through it. Control of Kangra meant control of movement into the hills. That reality explains why Kangra never remained untouched by invasion.

Kangra Fort: A chronicle of conquest

The history of Kangra’s invasions is inseparable from Kangra Fort. Built on a steep ridge overlooking river confluences, the fort was not ornamental. Its design prioritised survival—winding gates, cliff-integrated walls, hidden water sources, and narrow passages intended to exhaust attackers.

The first clearly documented invasion occurred in 1009 CE, when Mahmud of Ghazni looted the wealth of the nearby temple complex. Although he failed to retain the fort, his attack established Kangra’s reputation as a prize worth pursuing.

Subsequent centuries confirmed this pattern. Muhammad bin Tughluq captured the fort in 1337 CE. Firuz Shah Tughluq followed in 1351 CE. Sher Shah Suri’s forces seized it briefly in 1540 CE. Yet none of these powers managed lasting control.

The Mughals pursued Kangra with greater persistence. Akbar secured nominal submission in 1556 CE but failed to occupy the fort outright. Only under Jahangir, after a prolonged siege beginning around 1615 CE, did Mughal forces finally succeed. In 1620 CE, the fort fell, the Katoch ruler Raja Hari Chand was killed, and Kangra was annexed.

Mughal control lasted until 1783 CE. The Sikhs occupied the fort afterward, followed by the British in 1846 CE after the First Anglo-Sikh War.

Temples of Kangra that turned faith into targets

In Kangra, religious sites were never separate from invasion history. Wealth, belief, and power converged in temple spaces.

Bajreshwari Devi Temple

Located in Kangra town, Bajreshwari Devi Temple was among North India’s most revered and wealthy Shakti Peethas. Its riches attracted repeated attacks. Mahmud of Ghazni looted the temple in 1009 CE, carrying away gold, silver, and jewels. Firuz Shah Tughluq damaged it in the 14th century. Jahangir’s 1620 CE campaign again targeted the site.

Despite earthquakes, fires, and invasions, daily worship never ceased. Today’s structure dates largely to post-1905 rebuilding, but the continuity of devotion makes Bajreshwari Devi a living historical record rather than a relic.

Masroor Rock Cut Temple

If Bajreshwari Devi reflects Kangra’s contested wealth, Masroor Rock Cut Temple reflects its artistic confidence.

Carved in the 8th century from a single sandstone outcrop, the complex consists of multiple shikhara-topped shrines arranged with architectural precision. Ramayana narratives unfold across the walls, linking sacred story to sculptural mastery.

Although the 1905 earthquake damaged parts of the site, Masroor survived without the scars of invasion. Its relative isolation spared it from plunder, making it one of Kangra’s quietest yet most significant monuments.

Baijnath Temple

Further east, Baijnath Temple represents continuity rather than conflict. Built in 1204 CE by merchants Ahuka and Manyuka, the temple preserves Nagara-style architecture with exceptional clarity. Inscriptions record donors, confirming the role of trade communities in sustaining faith during unstable times.

Unlike many structures in the valley, Baijnath survived the 1905 earthquake with minimal damage. Rituals continue uninterrupted, reinforcing the sense that time here never truly broke.

Following centuries of warfare, Kangra entered a rare period of stability under Raja Sansar Chand Katoch. This stability allowed the Kangra School of miniature painting to flourish in the late 18th century.

Artists shifted away from Mughal formality, focusing instead on emotion, landscape, and intimacy. However, Gurkha invasions in 1809 CE disrupted patronage, and the 1905 earthquake delivered the final blow.

British planters introduced tea to Kangra in the mid-19th century, recognising the valley’s climate and altitude. By the early 1900s, Kangra tea reached international markets—until the earthquake again reshaped the valley’s economy.

Today, smaller estates around Palampur have revived tea cultivation through organic practices, marking yet another cycle of recovery.

Kangra’s importance lies not in preservation alone, but in persistence. Empires attacked it. Earthquakes shattered it. Yet belief continued, art evolved, and daily life resumed. Dharamshala and McLeodganj may attract attention, but Kangra explains why the region holds such depth.

For travellers willing to engage with history rather than scenery alone, Kangra offers something rare—a landscape shaped not by escape, but by endurance. The Himalayas offer beauty everywhere. Kangra offers memory.

Read more stories on Kangra Ki Awaaz.